Tackling Outdoor Chores In Bitter Cold

Forecasts for central Ohio predict some of the coldest temperatures in decades over the next few days. We're preparing the wood stock, reinforcing the livestock (straw bales everywhere!), and planning a menu of warm foods.

One reality of keeping animals is that we must go outside several times a day to tend them every day, more often in the coldest weather. With adequate preparation, appropriate gear, and a smooth routine, chores in the cold feel more like a triumph than, well, a chore.

Mentally Prepare -

Every morning in the winter, I lay in bed for at least fifteen minutes readying myself to put my feet on the floor. It's not that I don't want to wake - it's that my first task of the day is to head outside with the dog and a chicken waterer to open up the coop. My face full of wind and snow is not a gentle way to start the day, but the thought of my hens waiting in the coop motivates me to face the weather.

Dress In Wool, Silk, and Fleece Layers -

To feel most comfortable, cover your body in materials that insulate even when wet, with no breaks where cold air can come in. Layers create pockets of air around your body that will stay warm from your own body heat.

My base layer everyday is usually fine merino wool. If I'm just feeding the chickens, I'll put jeans and a sweater on top. If the chores are more lengthy, I choose Carhartt Overalls and a heavy fleece. Then comes my two-layer fleece and waterproof-breathable jacket. I have wool stocks, gloves, and a hat which are topped with a second layer of wool socks, waterproof gloves and hood in the coldest weather. I choose my Bogs High Boots for water-proof insulating footwear. A wool or silk scarf which can be pulled over the nose and sunglasses to help protect my eyes from wind complete the outfit.

Compiling adequate layers can take years of investing in quality pieces. We like to shop REI outlet and Sierra Trading Post for discontinued and clearance clothing from reputable makers like Marmot, Smartwool, and Mountain Hardwear. Thrift stores are a great source of fleece, wool tops, and boots.

Gather Supplies Under Shelter -

If at all possible, stay out of the wind and precipitation as often as you can, especially when gathering supplies. We rotate our chicken waterers, keeping the empties in our mudroom so we can fill them in the house. When I'm taking out compost, ashes, or trash, I stage those in the mudroom so that I can grab them quickly without tracking snow in the house and letting cold air in. Similarly, we use the garage for supply and tool storage. Every tool has a place so that we aren't outside searching in cold weather.

Work Quickly -

When you finally make a break through the wind-chill and snow, work as efficiently as possible without making mistakes. Spills are the worst because wet clothes are heavy and uncomfortable, though if you've chosen wool, silk, and fleece, they will still keep you warm. Skip mentoring children through chores or tackling a big project in frigid weather - keep your outside tasks to a minimum to avoid frustration and frostbite.

Warm Up With A Hot Drink -

Finally, come inside and warm up. Unwrap the layers and change into something dry if you're wet from precipitation or sweating. I turn on the tea kettle as I walk in the door and warm up from the inside out with hot tea, coffee, or a rum flip, depending on the time of day. If hot drinks aren't your thing, do sip on a glass of water - your body dehydrates rapidly in cold weather. Bask in the triumph of braving the weather and completing your chores in (relative) comfort!

How do you stay comfortable during winter outdoor chores?

Tackling Outdoor Chores In Bitter Cold

Forecasts for central Ohio predict some of the coldest temperatures in decades over the next few days. We're preparing the wood stock, reinforcing the livestock (straw bales everywhere!), and planning a menu of warm foods.

One reality of keeping animals is that we must go outside several times a day to tend them every day, more often in the coldest weather. With adequate preparation, appropriate gear, and a smooth routine, chores in the cold feel more like a triumph than, well, a chore.

Mentally Prepare -

Every morning in the winter, I lay in bed for at least fifteen minutes readying myself to put my feet on the floor. It's not that I don't want to wake - it's that my first task of the day is to head outside with the dog and a chicken waterer to open up the coop. My face full of wind and snow is not a gentle way to start the day, but the thought of my hens waiting in the coop motivates me to face the weather.

Dress In Wool, Silk, and Fleece Layers -

To feel most comfortable, cover your body in materials that insulate even when wet, with no breaks where cold air can come in. Layers create pockets of air around your body that will stay warm from your own body heat.

My base layer everyday is usually fine merino wool. If I'm just feeding the chickens, I'll put jeans and a sweater on top. If the chores are more lengthy, I choose Carhartt Overalls and a heavy fleece. Then comes my two-layer fleece and waterproof-breathable jacket. I have wool stocks, gloves, and a hat which are topped with a second layer of wool socks, waterproof gloves and hood in the coldest weather. I choose my Bogs High Boots for water-proof insulating footwear. A wool or silk scarf which can be pulled over the nose and sunglasses to help protect my eyes from wind complete the outfit.

Compiling adequate layers can take years of investing in quality pieces. We like to shop REI outlet and Sierra Trading Post for discontinued and clearance clothing from reputable makers like Marmot, Smartwool, and Mountain Hardwear. Thrift stores are a great source of fleece, wool tops, and boots.

Gather Supplies Under Shelter -

If at all possible, stay out of the wind and precipitation as often as you can, especially when gathering supplies. We rotate our chicken waterers, keeping the empties in our mudroom so we can fill them in the house. When I'm taking out compost, ashes, or trash, I stage those in the mudroom so that I can grab them quickly without tracking snow in the house and letting cold air in. Similarly, we use the garage for supply and tool storage. Every tool has a place so that we aren't outside searching in cold weather.

Work Quickly -

When you finally make a break through the wind-chill and snow, work as efficiently as possible without making mistakes. Spills are the worst because wet clothes are heavy and uncomfortable, though if you've chosen wool, silk, and fleece, they will still keep you warm. Skip mentoring children through chores or tackling a big project in frigid weather - keep your outside tasks to a minimum to avoid frustration and frostbite.

Warm Up With A Hot Drink -

Finally, come inside and warm up. Unwrap the layers and change into something dry if you're wet from precipitation or sweating. I turn on the tea kettle as I walk in the door and warm up from the inside out with hot tea, coffee, or a rum flip, depending on the time of day. If hot drinks aren't your thing, do sip on a glass of water - your body dehydrates rapidly in cold weather. Bask in the triumph of braving the weather and completing your chores in (relative) comfort!

How do you stay comfortable during winter outdoor chores?

Garden Pests Everywhere! {Wordless Wednesday}

Can you ID them all? 1. aphids on tomato leaf 2. flea beetle on potatoes 3. unidentified holes on cabbage leaves 4. cabbage moth caterpillar 5. beet leaf miner 6. chickens eyeing bean leaves 7. chickens turning cabbage moth caterpillar into eggs

We are trying to be zen-like in our thoughts and actions toward the early and widespread garden pests. We are plucking perpetrators and feeding them to the chickens and sometimes we're treating with natural pesticides. But we don't have the time or inclination to treat everything. Perhaps this year will be one in which we build up populations of natural predators. Ideally, the diversity of our plantings will ensure that something will survive; we'll save those seeds to breed local pest-resistance after we're done eating what we can, bug-holed or not.

Growing Matters and Blueberry Basics from OEFFA 2013

Yesterday I wrote about my introduction to Restoration Agriculture at the 2013 Ohio Ecological Food and Farm Association conference. Below are summaries of two other valuable sessions at the same conference. What the OEFFA conference offers beyond these planned sessions are real conversations with wise, experienced farmers and enthusiastic innovative personalities. I am still basking in the joy of talking with:

• Dale, the pasture-raised organic meat grower at Morning Sun Farm,
• Bear and Drew from Slow Food Columbus,
• Tricia, publisher of Edible Columbus,
• Dawn of Mockingbird Meadows,
• Warren and Joy of Snowville Creamery,
• and an overflowing crowd of attendees to my own talk about cultured foods.

The confidence of a community that believes in and works for a local sustainable food system is one that buoys me throughout the year.

Growing Matters

by Local Matters employees Trish Clark and Jesse Hickman

In creating the Growing Matters program, director Trish Clark searched for what is missing in Columbus and how can Local Matters could help. She created programs to support yard garden programs encouraging people to grow their own food as close to kitchen as possible.

In this session, Trish and Jesse showed a beautiful short video about Local Matters and then offered participants a chance to learn from each other. The large group brainstormed garden challenges and then broke into smaller 5-8 person groups to come up with solutions.

Successes: Use sheet mulching for weed suppression and water retention (use what you have for mulch) Plant buckwheat as a cover crop Crop rotation helps with almost every challenge Solicit volunteers or students to help as labor in exchange for educational experience Plant squash after June 15 to avoid beetles Plant enough for wildlife Plan ahead for food prep Collection Edible magazines for seasonal recipes Grow the basics Learn how to can/freeze/preserve through word of mouth, family history Consider raised beds for drainage, weed suppression, seating Plant varieties that are reliable regardless of conditions Consider keeping dogs to protect crops from rabbits, other small predators

Blueberry Basics

by farmers at Greenfield Berry Farm

Greenfield is a berry farm within Cuyahoga National Park. The farmers shared these tips for growing blueberries in a community setting. The farm is open for pick-your-own adventures and educational tours seasonally.

Get Soil Right First - test for pH - add sulpher to adjust pH around April 1st - plant holes with 50% peat moss - avoid standing water by making raised beds or installing drainage tile - choose full sun locations

Plant Well - 3-4 foot spacing with 10-12 feet between rows - plant in mounds level or slightly above ground - ensure no roots are exposed - water thoroughly

Choose Cultivars Wisely - bigger, sweeter berries tend to come from early season varieties - smaller, tart varieties later in season - Stokes in Michigan and Blueberry Patch in Mansfield are good sources

Address Pests - insects like datana caterpillars, tent worms, Japanese beetles, blueberry maggot, and ants all may attack parts of plants; treat with soapy water spray and/on manual removal - birds love berries; exclude with dense netting like Army surplus mosquito netting, sound devices, and attract predatory birds like kestrals

Watch for Disease - fungal root rot can occur if plants are not properly drained; can try moving to higher location - plants suffering from too-high pH will show yellowed leaves with dark veins; add sulpher

Fertilize - replenish 3-4-3 organic option, cottonseed meal, bloodmeal (apply lightly to avoid burning) - apply at bud break (approximately April 1) and again 4 weeks later after first year of planting - spread along drip line of the plant

Weeds - use weed wacker in between plants but avoid hitting trunk or you may girdle plant - vinegar (12% acidity) may be successful organic herbicide applied around drip line

Drought - berries will shrivel without enough water - irrigate with drip tape or water frequently - mulch with 4-6 inches of pine needles, sawdust, or wood chips; one year aged compost is best because it doesn't pull nitrogen from soil

Pruning - conduct pruning in late winter after weather has warmed above freezing (March) - aim to promote straight growth with room for air and light - lop off thick dead wood at base - cut off dead or diseased branches to nearest bilateral - remove overlapping branches - burn removed branches to prevent re-contamination

Thus ends my OEFFA 2013 brain dump. I hope my attempt to share what I learned was successful.

Introduction To Restoration Agriculture

Mark Shepard, author of Restoration Agriculture and founder of Restoration Agriculture Institute, presented the workshop "Designing Your Perennial Farm" at the 2013 Ohio Ecological Food and Farm Association (OEFFA) conference. Below is the summary of what I learned today.

Fundamentals of Restoration Agriculture

The key principle of Restoration Agriculture is to observe nature and imitate it to grow edibles. This requires a concept shift and constant questioning of oft-repeated 'facts'. "Apples don't have concepts of orchards," Shepard said. In a perennial polyculture, apples can grow among companions that reduce pest pressure and mowing needs.

He advocates for planting over-yielding polycultures. Instead of a one-acre monoculture of apple trees, say, plant peppers, sunflowers, squash, and chestnuts on the same acre. While each crop might not yield as much as if they had been babied in an acre of their own, the polyculture will yield more in sum than what a single acre of any one crop could provide. This method 'fattens up' the ecological system to create more edible niches.

Grazing animals are important parts of the system. Cattle, pigs, sheep, and chickens all can contribute to the soil nutrients, waste clean-up, and pest control among polycultures.

Shepard proposes a STUN method of farming - Sheer Total Utter Neglect. Let natural processes take over and what remains will be stronger plants more well-adapted to their micro-environment. When the whole farm is a wildlife habitat, natural predators will control pests and add vibrancy to the system. A restoration agriculture farm may take excess attention in the beginning years while developing waterways and planting but then plants can be strategically abandoned.

"Accept feedback," he urges. "There are no mistakes. Only feedback." What may look like a failure or problem is likely only an undiscovered opportunity. Apples, for instance, dislike weed competition at their roots. Shepard plants daffodils, comfry, and iris under his apples and ends up with strong fruit trees and a secondary cash crop of cut flowers, comfry greens, and iris bulbs.

Planning A Perennial Farm

To design a perennial farm, one must identify biomes and keystone areas, manage water and earthworks, establish edible woody polycultures, and build fences and access roads. Plan to capture all the water that falls through small ponds and swales. Typically these will follow a meandering or gently rounded pattern with slopes no more than 1%.

Polycultures include planting top story trees like oak, chestnut, pecan, black walnuts, and beech with smaller edible trees like apples, plums, peaches, and cherries underneath. Next come hazelnuts and berries. Fungi, animal forage, and herbs grow in the understory. These perennial edibles work with nature, are adaptable to many growing conditions, and designed to be coppiced for height control.

Shepard recommends planting an excess of trees to allow self-selection of individual trees that are suited to the particular location. He advises ditching the concept of large planting holes with exacting soil mixes and instead recommends using a hoedad tool to plant trees quickly.

In between woody polycultures, plant annuals. These alley crops can sustain a farm financially until perennial edibles are harvestable. In this way, agrofrestry creates future yields while increasing yields today.

Restoration Agriculture Results

When one grows in the Restoration Agriculture way, expect these outcomes:

• 3-7 times more energy capture per acre
• improved resource base
• perennial plants that reproduce themselves
• no plowing, cultivating, disease/pest treatment once established
• year-round harvest of multiple yields
• no erosion
• non-toxic environment
• beauty in diversity

Shepard concluded his talk by urging the audience to "Put your life to good use! Create oxygen, water, food, shelter and beauty!"

Soon, I will share our plans to put our life and land to good use following some of the Restoration Agriculture principles. I also will share more wisdom picked up at the OEFFA conference.

The Lenghtiest Homegrown Staple: Dry Beans

Have you ever made homegrown dried beans?

It's a lengthy and annoying process, in my opinion. I do it every year because I just can't stand to waste.

Here's how it goes:

I try to pick fresh green beans I grow every few days. We like the little sweet ones.

Beans are prolific. The bright green leave camouflage the slender green sickles. I miss many that then grow too big for us to enjoy fresh.

What's a lazy girl to do? Leave them on the vine, growing until they are full of fat beans. I leave them there while they whither. I don't pick until the leaves themselves have withered and I'm tired of looking at the whole mess.

Finally, after a few days without rain, I pick all the pods. I dry them further outside (where sometimes I forget to bring them in and they mold, see the dragon tongue yield on right) or in the house in a big bowl.

Weeks later, or when I can't stand the big bowl sitting around any more, I harvest the beans by hand. I crack each papery husk and remove the dry beans inside. It takes an hour or more to select the edible from the inedible. I leave them in open topped containers, stirring occasionally, to be sure the beans are truly dry before pantry storage.

The metal bowl above was filled to overflowing with bean pods and look at the tiny yield: a half pint jar of Kentucky pole beans, a half pint jar of another bean, and a scant few tablespoons of dragon tongues beans (left to right in top picture).

Harvesting homegrown dry beans, a timely process, makes me appreciate how inexpensive they are at the store. Freshly dried beans have fantastic texture and I will enjoy my tiny quantity. I just can't see trying to grow them for dry storage in any quantity without processing equipment.

Be My Guest and Meet Will Allen {Giveaway}

A week ago, I shared that urban agriculture genius Will Allen is visiting Columbus. Tickets are still available to the Friday keynote and Saturday-Sunday workshop intensive.

Thanks to a donation from Scotts via Slow Food Columbus, I am able to give away a ticket to the keynote address this Friday, July 15, 2011 at Franklin Park Conservatory. The winner can attend both the semi-private meet & greet session at 5 pm and the 6 pm talk, a $50 value!

All you need to do to enter is leave a comment with the reason you want to attend.

I'll start. I can't wait to hear Will Allen because:

• he has all the dirt on building healthy soil. I aspire to be more than a lazy composter.
• a former basketball player, Allen now builds hoop houses. I need to have one of these some day.
• he believes in the transformative power of edible gardening. I look forward to being inspired by his radical back-to-the-earth ideas.

Leave a comment with your reason and a way to contact you before midnight Wednesday July 13, 2011 when the contest ends. I'll draw a random winner and notify them by 10 am Thursday.

Edible Garden Plans 2011

My cousin Todd, owner of Combs Landscape Design, came over to talk about our garden last week. He encouraged me to think of the backyard as a room with 'walls' of fence and house to be decorated with wooden panels painted by Lil. He advised us to expand the number of garden beds and arrange them in a funky mixed up way to complement the kid friendly decor coming soon. Thanks to intern Keara and nice weather at the end of last week, we got right to the work of building new beds. We also moved a bed from the chicken run to the open sunlight. We are adding 41 sq feet of growing space for a total of 184 sq feet in raised beds.

I hung myself and my expensive camera out an upstairs window to take the picture below. Don't worry, Dad, Alex was right behind me ready to call an ambulance if I fell. Later I used my favorite online editor Picnik to add text that shows exactly where we will plant everything.

Lil had the brilliant idea to add more fruit trees to the chicken run to provide the hens with shade and grow something yummy out of reach of the hungry birds. A dwarf apricot and pear are on their way to us from Stark Brothers. We will also move some raspberry bushes from a shadier part of the yard to take advantage of the sunlight.

Before May 15, we need to get dirt in the new beds and shore up some of the others. We'll set Lil to painting as soon as we get home from New England. Todd has an idea to paint the fence to highlight the 'wall' concept. We also have plans to move Lil's playhouse and make a patio on the shady side of the yard for al fresco dining and grilling, which will also call for moving some landscape plants.

Oh, and did you spot the deadly garden label? Alex will share about his pet project next week.

What are your gardening plans for 2011? If you are a beginning grower, be sure to download my free Grow Your Garden ebook.