Oil Cloth Circus Buntings To Deter Chicken Predators {Tutorial}

chicken coop oilcloth buntingOur chicken yard is newly decorated with circus-like oil cloth buntings. They make me smile while detering aerial predators like hawks. Birds who might take chickens don't think they have enough space to land and fly away again with the buntings in the way. cutting oilcloth for buntingoilcloth triangles

I made the buntings with five coordinating oil cloth patterns from local fabric store Sew to Speak. Oil cloth is vinyl bonded on a cotton mesh base, making it a sturdy, outdoor-friendly fabric.

I cut each selection into strips 10-inches wide. Then, I placed removable tape on my cutting board every eight inches, staggering the bottom row by four inches, as markers for cutting. I used a rotary cutter and a straight edge to cut the strips two layers at a time into isosceles triangles.

Next, I made four stacks of triangles with a random pattern assortment. My brain naturally tends toward order, so I had to watch that I was selecting randomly.

ironing polyester twill tape for buntingsewing oil cloth bunting The Sew to Speak employee suggested twill tape as a binding/stringing material but they only had cotton and I wanted something that would hold up to constant outdoor use. I looked for polyester twill tape locally but found none in large lengths, so I purchased a roll of twill ribbon on Amazon. 

I assembled the buntings by inserting oil cloth triangles as I sewed the folded twill tape together, leaving approximately 18 inches at each end with no oil cloth for ties.

anti-predator bunting closeup

In the end, the chicken-yard circus buntings cost me about $40 in materials and 4 hours of time. I could have used boat rope (Alex's suggestion) to achieve the same predator-deterring effect, but I prefer the color and whimsy of this little project. What do you think?

Seasonal Snaps: Summer Solstice 2013

Welcome summer!urban homestead front yard garden Things are green around here. In the front yard, we have a squash and grains patch and the Swainway Urban Farm annex, six long rows of organic tomatoes, peppers, beets, and celery root.

urban homestead front yard Out back, the baby orchard is coming along. We're collecting no fruit from these trees, but are eating mulberries from a wild tree and looking forward to harvest from an existing apple and pear tree.

urban homestead month nine We've taken down trees, built a new coop, and started many gardens near the house. The natural playground balance beam, steps, and swinging rope lie between the orchard and near gardens.

urban homestead chicken yard and hoop house Chicks are growing too. Lil and I allowed this Buff Brahma to explore the hoop house recently. We've eaten peas, greens, strawberries, radishes and beets from the hoop house this spring; the beds now contain tomatoes and peppers. hen in hoop house

We couldn't be more pleased with the progress from winter solstice 2012 to spring equinox 2013 to now. We're not stopping yet - we have plans for a big harvest, mud room, and maybe even a renovated indoor kitchen before the next season change.

What's happening in your neck of the woods?

Garlic Scapes - Why To Cut and How To Cook

garlic scape heart

At heart, I am a skeptical, lazy gardener. I question old-school farming practices, especially if they require me to work harder. I want evidence that I should do this or that to make my plants happy.

Every year I test a few traditional garden concepts, like removing tomato suckers, to find out whether they really benefit the plant's production. (I find no evidence that removing suckers is anything but suckers' work.) Two years ago, I used my garlic patch as a trial for the standard practice of removing the garlic scape to encourage bulb production.

Should You Cut Scapes?

Garlic scapes are the flower stalk of the garlic plant. The theory behind removing them is that by taking away the flower bud, the plant will put more energy into bulb production. Look below to see the difference between garlic with scapes removed on the right and those allowed to flower on left of plants grown in the same location and with same growing practices.

garlic scapes comparisonClearly, scapes to inhibit bulb production. When removed, the garlic produces healthier, bigger bulbs. Because the scapes are edible, the gardener is rewarded for their work of removing the scape with a tasty food.

How To Eat Garlic Scapes

The garlic scape stalk is a dense cylinder of garlic-flavored goodness. At this time of year, I stop buying garlic and use chopped up fresh scapes for all my garlic needs. I add them to stir fry, soups, stocks, and pickles.

Garlic scapes are traditionally made into pesto by pureeing the scape with fresh herbs, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Garlic scape pesto can be used as a sauce for pasta, spread for sandwiches, or mixed with sour cream for a dip.

Store scapes in the fridge for up to two weeks. Alternatively, put freshly-cut ends in a container of water and keep at room temperature for a few days where you can enjoy the shapes. As a last resort, give one to your child to use as a magic wand or a sword! Lil, seen here a few years ago, love to play with scapes.

lil and scape wand

If you don't grow your own garlic but want to experiment with scapes, visit your local farmers' market. Farmers are only too happy to sell their edible plant pickings. Come see me at the Swainway/Northridge booth at Clintonville this weekend for organic Ohio scapes.

Are You Ohio State Fair Award Winning?

Random picture of Alex, Lil, and I at the Ohio State Fair last year. A few decades ago, I entered a fair baking contest. I was eleven or twelve, the contest was baked goods, and my entry was a blueberry peach pie with lattice crust. My first place pie won the right to be auctioned off at the Franklin County Fair. Then-Sherrif Jim Kearnes bought my pie for somewhere around $75, the most money I had ever earned. The cash is long spent and ribbon lost, but I remain smitten by the idea of fair cooking contests.

So it is that every year around this time, I browse and consider the Ohio State Fair culinary competitions. The fair offers awards (cash and ribbons) for winners in categories as diverse as jam and pickled beets, pumpkin breads and jerky. How cool would it be to list 'State Fair Award-Winning Jam Maker' on a resume?

Sponsored special competitions offer greater challenges and bigger prizes. This year, the granddaddy of Ohio State Fair contests is the Kenmore 100th Anniversary 'Greatest Generations of Grilling Cookoff', described on page 19 of the .pdf contest information packet. Entries are due June 20th. Celebrity Chef Bobby Dean will be judging for the top prize of a kitchen makeover and trip to New York City and available to meet guest goers on July 27. Mighty tempting!

With this summer being as busy as it is, I simply can't go after the blue ribbon this year. Perhaps you can? I'd love to see a Harmonious Homestead reader take first prize at the fair!

 

PS. A little internet sleuthing found that Kenmore is offering similiar prizes in an online contest. If you can't make the fair, maybe you want to enter online?

Jerry's Berries Strawberry U-Pick Baltimore Ohio {Farm Tour}

jerry's berriesFinding strawberries seems to be an ever-elusive springtime goal of mine. No other fruit causes me to panic when I can't get them because of weather or farm issues or my own busy-ness. Strawberries are typically my first local preserves of the season, the turning point when empty jars become full again. This year was no exception. My favorite farm from last year, Bird's Haven, had no u-pick berries available due to deer pressure while work and family distractions delayed finding a new farm. Our own patch produced well but only enough for a daily handful. I found myself fixated on picking strawberries once again.

Alex, Lil, and I were finally able to find a morning to visit a highly-recommended farm new to us. Jerry's Berries is located south east of Columbus in Baltimore, Ohio, a forty minute drive from our homestead.

strawberry variety northeaster

What makes Jerry's unique among local farms is the number of varieties. Each are labeled and pickers are encouraged to taste the rows to find their favorite. Our family preferred NorthEaster and Sparkle. Both of these kinds are small but highly flavorful, making them worth the extra time spent picking and processing.

Jerry's will provide a basket or you can bring your own to weigh before picking. Berries are $1.90 per pound. The entire berry patch is contained in a tall deer fence, which conveniently keeps kids close too. Some varieties were picked over but we (two adults and a child more interested in her stuffed cat than filling a basket) were able to gather 15.75 pounds in 90 minutes.

jerry's berries fields

The farm claims to use no pesticides and follow natural practices; indeed their plants appear naturally healthy. Weeds and pollinator insects are abundant but not so much as to be a problem to u-pickers. Jerry shared that they do use chemical fertilizers to replace nutrient loss. He expects the farm to have berries for another couple weeks - the website is updated daily with picking conditions.

child picking strawberries with stuffed catchild carrying home basket of berries

Our opinion is that Jerry's Berries is simple and lovely. Rows are mulched generously with straw, making the hunt for small, flavorful berries pleasant. There are no items for sale other than u-pick berries, something I very much appreciate. No mother who just sweated over 10 pounds of sweet, juicy berries should have to negotiate about junk food while settling up with the farmer.

Now that my first fruit of the year are in the pantry, I can release the panicky feeling. Fresh fruit and vegetables are more abundant every day and soon all the empty jars will be filled again.

Jerry's Berries - www.jerrysberries.com

2849 Basil Western Rd. Baltimore Ohio 43105 USA Hours of operation: Monday - Friday, 6:00 pm to 8:00 pm; Saturday, 10:00 am to 8:00 pm; Sundays, 11:00 am to 8:00 pm Phone: 740-862-8819 or 740-862-8481

 

Hugelkultur Whatta?

hugelkultur pile instructions In reading about permaculture, one strange word comes up in book after book: hugelkultur. Hugel is for hill, kultur for culture, as in cultivation. In practice, a hugelkultur pile is a giant raised bed with a base of rotting wood.

Having an abundance of excess wood from downed limbs and trees, and needing to build beds for our seedlings, led us to experimentation with hugelkultur.

The Hulgelkultur Concept

Hulgelkultur is a prominent feature of many permaculture gardens. Hulgelkultur piles:

  • expand growing capacity in a small space,
  • encourage microclimates,
  • allow for easier harvesting,
  • retain water while allowing drainage, and
  • build nutrients over time.

The surface area on a mini-hill, as hugelkultur piles become, allow for the greater planting area. Growers traditionally plant nutrient-needing plants like tomatoes, strawberries, peppers, etc. on the top of the pile. Heat-loving greens, like collards, line the south side where sun will be heavier, and shade-tolerant plants like lettuces go on the north side.

Building Hugelkultur Piles

beginning of a hugelkultur pile

The first hulgelkultur bed I built with the help of my friend Elizabeth in late winter. We took logs from a catalpa tree with very soft wood to make the base. Next we layered in smaller branches and stomped on the top to get the branches to compact. Over the next few weeks, I shoveled wood chips in the holes left behind and placed pieces of sod, upside down, over the branches to begin building soil.

The grass began growing through the sod, so I had to go back and shake out the soil piece by piece. This was tedious, but I couldn't have grasses stealing nutrients from the edibles I intended to plant. I added some soil and compost from Price Farms and planted in early May.

Later, after clearing away wood from the honey locust tree we had cut down, a big depression was left where the trunk fell. A big depression in full sun with the grass already dead? Sounds like the beginnings of another hugelkultur!

hugelkultur pile with leaveshugel kultur pile plantedchild showing height of hugelkultur pile

This time I was more careful to use rotten logs and grade them finely so the pile is more compact. I layered in leaf litter instead of woodchips because that's what we had in abundance.

Tips for Building Hugelkultur

  • Build in the off season to allow weather to help settle everything in. Holes may appear that need to be filled.
  • Digging the bottom out a little helps the layering but building right on top of the grass layer creates a higher bed.
  • Quickly-rotting soft woods will build beds faster.
  • Avoid materials that can leach toxins into your garden. Don't use painted or treated woods. I couldn't find definitive evidence or experience with this, but unless you have no other material available, I wouldn't use black walnut which releases juglone, toxic to plants like tomatoes and peppers.
  • Build the base at least three feet wide and ideally four feet wide. Smaller widths will not hold much material on top and wider will not allow access to the middle where plants can best grow.

Our Experiments

Our second hulgelkultur is oriented opposite of the first which creates drastic differences in sunlight exposure. Both piles have tomatoes, peppers, and beans growing in them along with other plants. They piles are easy to tend, being several feet off the ground. I'm not worried about flooding in the hugelkultur piles whereas I am worried about flooding elsewhere in our low yard.

hugelkultur pile as seen from the top

Time will tell how these hugelkultur compare to each other and to the rest of the garden made of lasagna-type beds. I predict they will be less productive in this first year as relatively fresh wood decomposes and pulls some nitrogen out of the soil. In the long term, however, I think our 'stick mound things', as guests sometimes refer to them, may become the most productive areas of our garden.

Dirt Gym

child using wheelbarrow Do you struggle to find time and motivation to exercise? Are you looking for the latest greatest fitness craze?

Let me introduce you to Dirt Gym. Located on every small farm in the country, including the Harmonious Homestead, you can tone your muscles and chill your mind while growing food.

Searching for six pack abs? Let me introduce you to the amazing effects of hoeing weeds among rows of corn and sweeping the weed whacker between fruit trees in the orchard. Digging drainage ditches builds obliques.

When it rains, have a mud run, no registration fee required! After dark, bring your head lamp for jaunts chasing after the escaped cat or nocturnal predators.

exercise by log splitting Want ripping arm muscles? Join Alex at the wood pile to chop your way to defined biceps. Haul the split wood from chopping block to storage pile for some aerobics to balance your exercise.

Fill, push, and unload the wheelbarrow for basic cardio. Squat, stoop for a weed and jump up again in the patented 'Weedie' exercise move. Count the number of bags of feed or bales of straw you can load and unload in a single session - and document your PR on Instagram with our complimentary WiFi!

We have no juice bar, but gym rats can refuel on greens and herbs year-round by plucking them out of the beds. Showers and towels aren't provided either but we have 125 feet of hose. Tan with the original ancient process known as working under the sun.

Dirt Gym costs nothing and is open every day of the year - all ages welcome!

Garden Pests Everywhere! {Wordless Wednesday}

aphids on tomato leaf flea beetle on potatoesholes on cabbage leaf

cabbage moth caterpillarbeet leaf miner

predation by chickens

chickens eating caterpillars

Can you ID them all? 1. aphids on tomato leaf 2. flea beetle on potatoes 3. unidentified holes on cabbage leaves 4. cabbage moth caterpillar 5. beet leaf miner 6. chickens eyeing bean leaves 7. chickens turning cabbage moth caterpillar into eggs

We are trying to be zen-like in our thoughts and actions toward the early and widespread garden pests. We are plucking perpetrators and feeding them to the chickens and sometimes we're treating with natural pesticides. But we don't have the time or inclination to treat everything. Perhaps this year will be one in which we build up populations of natural predators. Ideally, the diversity of our plantings will ensure that something will survive; we'll save those seeds to breed local pest-resistance after we're done eating what we can, bug-holed or not.